Installer/Owner Responsibility:

Hardwood flooring is a beautiful product of nature with inherent variations in appearance. Greendale pre-finished floors are manufactured with high quality standards and in accordance with accepted industry standards, which permit a defect tolerance not to exceed 5%. The defects may be of a manufacturing or natural type, and this 5% defect allowance is not valid under the Greendale 's warranty. It is the owner's and installer's responsibility to approve all material prior to installation. No such claims will be considered after installation.

Prior to installation, the installer and/or owner of a Greendale floor assume responsibility for carefully inspect the flooring as to grade, manufacture, color and finish. The owner's responsibility also applies during his/her absence from the installation site. If a flooring board is not acceptable, do not install it and contact the seller immediately. Once a board has been nailed, glued down, or floated, it is deemed accepted by the installer and/or owner. The manufacturer denies any responsibility for judgment errors and/or for poor installation quality of its products. Greendale will not be responsible for any labor, installation and other associated costs.

Tools and Accessories Needed for Nail Down Installation:

• Power Miter saw
• Tenon-saw, circular saw or handsaw
• Claw hammer and nail punch
• Straightedge
• Measuring Tape
• Moisture meter (wood, concrete or both)
• Chalk line and chalk
• Level and leveling compound
• #20 grit sandpaper
• Rubber Mallet and Tapping Block
• Pry Bar
• Filler stick and touch-up marker
• Utility knife
• Broom and dust pan
• Vacuum cleaner
• Ear plugs, safety glasses and dust mask
• Power nailer or stapler
• Electric drill and bits
• Hardwood flooring nails (nails or cleats)
• Finishing nails
• Flooring screws
• 15 lb Aspalt Paper

Tools and Accessories Needed for Glue Down Installation:

• Use a Urethane based adhesive. DriTac Urethane wood flooring adhesive-7400, is recommended. Do not use a water based adhesive.
• Trowel
• Concrete nails (to secure holding block)
• Blue adhesive painters tape

Temperature, Humidity, Storage and Handling:

Hardwood is a living material which reacts to changes of relative humidity. It absorbs or releases humidity according to seasons. To allow for proper acclimation, the heating/air-condition system must be operational for least 14 days prior to installation and thereafter at a temperature of 65°- 75°F to reach desired humidity level. The relative humidity level at home should be controlled between 35% - 55% at all times prior, during and subsequent to installation. In summer, when humidity is high, hardwood absorbs the humidity in the air and expands. The expansion causes the strips/planks of wood to push against each other. The floor is cupped or "cupping". These variations can be minimized with proper ventilation and dehumidifying. On the other hand, in winter, the relative humidity level at home is much lower due to the usage of heating system. The lower humidity level results the wood releases its humidity and the strips/planks contract or shrink. It is then recommended to use a humidifier to minimize extreme shrinkage effects.

Hardwood flooring must be stored in a controlled environment within the above mentioned temperature and humidity. Greendale engineered flooring should be kept in shrink wrapped boxes until immediately before installation. Do not remove from packaging and acclimate like a solid hardwood floor. Handle and unload with care. Store the flooring in a dry place and provide air space under cartons. Do not unload or transport flooring during wet conditions (i.e. rain, sleet or snow) because the wood will absorb moisture, which will cause it to swell. The swelling of the wood will cause problems, because eventually the wood will shrink back to its normal moisture content, and the resultant shrinkage may produce gaps in the finished flooring.

Job Site Requirements:

The building must be completely closed in with all outside doors and windows in place. All "wet" work (such as concrete, masonry, framing members, drywall, paint, etc.) should be thoroughly dry. The wall coverings and painting should be completed before the installation of the hardwood flooring. In order to avoid damage caused by moisture, make sure basements and under-floor crawl space are dry and well ventilated. Plastering and concrete work must be completely dry with minimum of 90 days curing time. Freshly poured concrete slabs emit many gallons of moisture as water vapor, therefore no concrete should be poured after the flooring is installed. Exterior grading should be complete with surface drainage offering a minimum drop of 3" in 10' to direct flow of water away from the structure. All gutters and downspouts should be in place. Solid and bamboo flooring only can be installed on or above ground level with a plywood subfloor. Engineered flooring can be installed above grade, at grade and below grade level. Do not install hardwood flooring in bathrooms or laundry rooms.

Crawl spaces must be a minimum of 24" from the ground to underside of joists. A ground cover of 6-8 mil polyethylene sheeting is essential as a vapor barrier with joints lapped six inches and taped. The crawl space should have perimeter venting equal to a minimum of 1.5% of the crawl space square footage. These vents should be properly located to foster cross ventilation. Where necessary, local regulations must be met. Crawl spaces must be dry and well ventilated. Use a moisture meter to check the plywood (subfloor) moisture content. Delay the installation if the moisture content of the plywood (sub-floor) exceeds 12%. Engineered flooring can be installed over a dry concrete subfloor. In order to test the moisture level of the concrete subfloor, tape 18" x 18" clear plastic sheeting to the floor in two spots, sealing all sides with moisture resistant tape. Leave in place for 48 hours and then remove. If after removing there is no condensation on the underside of the plastic sheeting, the concrete slab can be considered dry enough to install the engineered flooring. If there is moisture on the plastic sheeting, there is a problem and the flooring cannot be installed. A professionally installed moisture barrier would be required. Using the moisture meter, check the moisture content of the Greendale flooring to ensure that it is within the Greendale acceptable moisture range of 6% to 9%. The installer and/or owner have full responsibility for moisture testing the wood or concrete subfloor and the Greendale flooring prior to installation.

Required SubFloor Surfaces and Conditions:

• Preferred ¾" CDX grade plywood with minimum of 5/8" CDX grade plywood over joists subfloor
• Existing wood boards over joists subfloor and
• Dry Concrete subfloor ( only for Engineered Floors )

Note: particle board or other similar type products are not suitable subfloors.

Subflooring must be clean, smooth and free of wax, paint, oil, sealers, adhesives, curing agents and other debris. Subflooring must be straight, flat and leveled. Sand high areas or joints. Flatten low spots with layers of builders felt, plywood or shims (not leveling compounds). Subflooring must be structurally sound. Nail or screw any loose areas that squeak. Replace any damaged, swollen or delaminated subflooring. Subflooring must be completely dry and meet with moisture content requirements. Subfloor preparation is a very critical step prior to the installation of your new floor. The hardwood and bamboo floor is only as good as what is underneath it. Laminated rosin paper or construction paper acts as a moisture retarder and may be used to reduce movement caused by changes in subfloor moisture. Therefore it may reduce cupping and warping. It may also reduce sound transfer, and to prevent noise caused by minor irregularities and debris.

General Instructions Prior to Installation:

• It is recommended that the flooring be installed at a 90 degree angle to the joists for wood subfloors. An additional 5% flooring must be added to the actual square footage needed for cutting and grading allowance.
• Plan out the installation determining an appropriate color match of boards. Floor should be installed from several cartons at the same time to ensure good color and shade mixture.
• Remove any existing base molding, other moldings, door sills and old floor covering where applicable. Using a hand saw, undercut the bottom of door frames 3/4" to slide hardwood board beneath.
• Do not use flooring pieces with obvious defects. It is the installer's/owner's responsibility to ensure that the conditions of the flooring are acceptable prior to installation. The manufacturer declines any responsibility for flooring which is installed with obvious defects and/or flooring which is installed under improper jobsite conditions.

Nail or Staple Down Installation Guidelines

• Ensure that all the above subfloor conditions and general instructions have been met. Mark the locations of joists on perimeter walls so that the starting runs and finishing runs, which require face nailing, can be nailed into joists. Staple down 15 lb. asphalt paper over the subfloor, lapped 2"-4" at seams. This helps prevent moisture from below, and helps prevent squeaks in dry seasons.

Note : some squeaking and crackling of the floor is normal when using the nail or staple down method, and is not considered a defect.

• Direction of the flooring should be installed at a 90 degree (right) angle to the floor joists. Expansion gaps of 3/4" are required between flooring and all walls in room.
• Determine a starting wall. When possible, always begin the layout from the straightest wall, which usually tends to be an outside wall. Measure out from this wall at each end the width of one board (including the tongue) and then add an additional 3/4" for expansion. At these measured locations, mark a chalk line parallel to the starting wall. The chalk line is the starting line for the placement of the first row of the floor.
• Face Nail 1 st Row : Install the first board along the chalk line, making sure that the tongue side of the board is facing away from the starting wall (i.e. tongue side is facing you). Drill holes through the face of the board at 6" intervals, with the drill holes located approximately 1" from the back edge. Secure the starter board to the subfloor with 1" long finishing nails, by driving the nails until the heads are just above the board, then sink the nails with a nail set. Fill nailed areas with appropriate colored wood filler to match the flooring.
• Blind Nail : Drill pilot holes along the tongue side of the board, using an appropriately sized drill bit for the nails. Set the bit in the corner formed by the tongue and edge of the board, angled at 45 degrees. Drill pilot holes approximately every 6" through the board, and up to 2" from each end. Do not drill within 2" from each end. Drive a 1" finishing nail into each pilot hole and sink the nail below the surface with a nail set.
• Install the remaining boards of the first row following all the instructions outlined in Steps 4 (Face Nail) and 5 (Blind Nail). Ensure that the end tongues and grooves fit together snugly.
• Subsequent Rows : Ensure that the first board of the each subsequent row is at least 6" longer or shorter than that of the prior row to maintain a staggered appearance. Securely fit the groove of the new board into the tongue of the previous row. If necessary, use a rubber mallet and tapping block to achieve a snug fit. Blind nail the boards as described in Step 5 . It is highly recommended that the first few rows be nailed by hand rather than with a power nailer or stapler because of the vertical wall obstruction. Once there is adequate space, subsequent rows may be installed using a power nailer or stapler, which eliminates the need for pilot holes. Follow all the manufacturer's instructions when using the power nailer or stapler and continue to nail/staple the tongue side of each board at a 45 degree angle and at 8" intervals, but do not nail/staple within 2" from the end of each board. As you approach the end of each row, ensure that a long board is selected as the last board of the row, so that the cut portion of the last board can be used as the starting board of the next row to minimize waste.
• Last rows : Due to the end wall proximity, installation of the last 4 to 5 rows will need to be done manually following the instructions for blind nailing outlined in Step 5 . The end row may have to be rip-sawed to leave the required 3/4" expansion gap along the end wall. The end row must be faced nailed in place, by drilling holes through the face of the board at 6" intervals, with the drill holes located approximately 1" from the back edge (i.e. 1" from tongue side). Secure the end board with 1" long finishing nails, by driving the nails until the heads are just above the board, then sink the nails with a nail set. Fill nailed areas with appropriate colored wood filler to match the flooring.

Glue Down Installation Guidelines ( For Engineered Floors Only)

• Ensure that all the above subfloor conditions and general instructions have been met. Determine a starting point. When possible, always begin the layout from the straightest wall, which usually tends to be an outside wall. Measure out from this wall at each end the width of two boards (including the tongue) and then add an additional 3/4" for expansion. At these measured locations, mark a chalk line parallel to the starting wall. The chalk line is the starting line for the placement of the floor. Note: The working area between the starting wall and the chalk line will be the last floor area installed. It is recommended that a holding block be nailed down or secured between the chalk line and the outside wall to secure the first row of floor and prevent movement.
• Apply the adhesive to the subfloor area in accordance with all manufacturer's instructions to cover the width of approximately the first two rows of planks. Ensure that the room is well ventilated. Spread the adhesive holding the trowel at a 45 degree angle to the subfloor, in accordance with the manufacturer's recommended spread rate. As a general rule, limit the application of adhesive to the subfloor to the area which can be covered in 30 minutes so as to prevent drying out of the adhesive. However, the drying time will vary depending on job site conditions.
• Use the longest, straightest boards for the first two rows. Leave a 3/4" gap alongside both the left wall and right walls which are perpendicular to the starting line to serve as expansion gaps Install the first row of planks along the chalk line/holding block with the tongue side propped against the holding block, and press the board down for adhesion to the subfloor. Ensure that a long board is selected as the last board of the row, so that the cut portion of the last board can be used as the starting board of the next row to minimize waste.
• Carefully start the second row by ensuring that the first board used for the second row is at least 6" longer or shorter than that of the first row, and thereby stagger the floor joints to achieve a more favorable appearance. Insert the tongue end of the second row board into the board groove of the first row board and slide securely into place. Press board down for adhesion to subfloor.
• Follow the same procedure for the installation of subsequent rows, being careful to stagger the end joints by at least 6". Do not walk on the freshly laid floor. Apply blue adhesive painters tape perpendicularly to the seam of adjoining rows to prevent the rows from spreading apart. Any adhesive which gets on the surface of the flooring should be removed as soon as possible by using damp, clean towels and followed by immediately drying the cleaned surface. Replace the towels often to ensure effective cleaning.
• When installing the row adjacent to the end wall leave an expansion space of approximately 3/4".
• After installing the end wall row, go back to the area between the starting wall and the chalk line. Remove the holding block and proceed to glue down the first two rows between the chalk line and the starting wall. Remember, your measurement from the starting wall already should have provided for a 3/4" expansion space. After the installation is complete, wait 24 hours before walking on the floor and moving any furniture or objects onto the floor.

  FLOATING INSTALLATION

Install underlayment pad:

Install 6 mil Polyethylene vapor barrier over entire flooring surface. Overlap sheets of Polyethylene 16” and tape together creating an airtight seal. Using 1/8” (3.2 mm) foam padding, roll out one roll at a time over vapor barrier being careful not to poke holes or otherwise damage material during installation. Run padding up walls 1” to 1.5” (25.4 mm to 38.1 mm) and secure in place with tape. Join padding sections with tape strip and tape down any additional loose edges. A “2-in-1” foam padding /moisture barrier may be substituted for two separate products listed above. Ensure it is a minimum 3mm to a maximum of 7mm in thickness.

Installing the boards:

Boards are installed left to right with the groove side facing the wall. A stair-step pattern will be repeated throughout installation. Stagger the ends of the boards a minimum of 8” (203.2 mm). Leave a minimum 3/8” (9.5 mm) expansion around all vertical objects such as walls, poles, and stairs. If starting wall is uneven, trace the contour of wall, using a scriber, onto first row of planks and cut to size.

Application of adhesive:

To secure a durable wood floor the boards must be bonded with adhesive in the tongue and groove. We recommend waterproof PVAC glue (Titebond II Premium Wood Glue or Elmer's Probond Interior/Exterior glues are recommended) The glue must be applied in a continuous 1/8” (3.2 mm) bead on the inside top of the groove on both the long and short edges. Dry fit first row using stair-step pattern. Number each plank in the order of installation. When you reach the last plank in first row, turn plank 180° so tongue is flush against tongue of previous plank. Mark the plank and cut to length. Dry fit final plank of row. Begin dry fitting second row, starting with (if possible) left over piece from previous row. Be sure to stagger end of boards at least 10” (254 mm) to achieve effective stair step pattern. Floating installation is completed by gluing and taping flooring profiles together. Separate first two rows noting installation order. Holding the

first board with the tongue resting in the palm of your hand, apply a thin bead of glue in the groove on the side and end of the board. Repeat process with subsequent planks. Press each board firmly together, tapping profiles lightly with a block and hammer if necessary. Clean excess glue from between boards with a damp cloth. Tape each board together at side and end seams using 3M Blue Tape. Often the last row will not end with a full plank. When this happens, place a full row of planks on top of the last row installed. Insert a 3/8” (9.5 mm) spacer against wall, and using a full width plank, trace distance from wall onto final row. Cut planks for final row to designated width. Apply glue and fit into place. Tape may be removed within one hour. Allow 12 hours before placing furniture on floors and 24 hours before introducing heavy

objects or full traffic.

Note: Do not install cabinets or walls on top of floating floors.

INSTALLATION OVER RADIANT HEAT

(Floating Installation Only)

Important Note:

• Heating System maximum allowable temperature is 80° F (26° C).

• The sub floor should be completely dry and cured for a minimum of 4 weeks prior to operation of radiant system.

• System should run at normal temperature (typically 2/3 maximum output) for a minimum of 21 days prior to floor installation to further allow moisture from concrete to dissipate and reach final moisture content reading.

• The heating system must be turned off 24 hours prior to installation and must remain off for 24 hours after installation.

Complete the Installation:

• At completion of the installation, vacuum thoroughly and clean the floor with proper wood flooring cleaner on a soft, cloth mop. Then wipe the surface clean to remove loose dirt or soil.
• Reinstall all base and/or quarter round moldings. Nail the moldings into the wall, not the floor.
• Install any transition pieces that may be required, such as reducers, T-moldings and stair nosing.
• Keep several spare boards from the installation in the event of future repairs.